That means it is time to paper tune and make minor adjustments to shoot that bullet hole we dream of. After a couple shots and a slight sight adjustment, I was shooting well, but if you look close my arrows are coming in at a L-to-R angle. I will have to go back and give the string a half twist to align the peep and D-loop after I put about fifty shots through the bow. Peep sight, D-loop, and arrow rest installation was next. Ten years of wax build up was tempting the string to jump off the cam. I did have to spend some time with a bristle brush and alcohol to clean out the cam groove. It was my first time attempting this and it turned out great. I also purchased the bracketed arms for use on a wide limb bow. New Piranha Bowstrings were added using a portable Bowmaster bowpress. It took some work, but I remedied the issue. Unfortunately, the glue hadn’t cured properly and left streaks. I glued the staple holes and painted them. I peeled off the decal, pulled the staple from inside that held the inside protective layer, and then removed the rubber protective layer. The TightSpot Quiver needed a bath in paint. You can see it is chipping on the cams, but I’m indifferent as it covers most of it and is liable to chip anyway in the field. At first, I thought I wanted more original color to show, but after trying it out, I decided to paint everything, even the cams. To paint my Trophy Taker Smackdown Pro rest, I took it apart and then taped it up with green Frog Tape. I also applied a single coat of Krylon COLORmaxx Flat Crystal Clear Spray Paint (also $3.98/can) as my final application to dull any sheen. I needed two cans because I played around with coverage. I opted for Krylon ColorMaxx Matte Sand Dollar at $3.98 a can. I wanted to try using an inexpensive, matte paint for the bow. Use whatever works for you, but the Frog Tape peels off really easy and is great for taping up a bow. I used a combination of Frog Tape (for the strings), paper stuffing over the cables with white photo tape for the cams. The original was white and it stuck out like a sore thumb. Replacing the cable guard was a no-brainer. L to R, Top to Bottom: Bear Archery logo (just looks cool), peeling paint, flicking paint chips with my fingernail (I used a sharp blade after), and then using wet sandpaper to take off the smaller bits and level it out. If I miss anything or you have any questions, let me know. This post will be photo heavy, and I will share what I did in the captions. Instead of that, I decided to produce a photo essay of sorts. I’ve shared with some people that I was going to write up a lengthy post on what I did with the bow to prepare it, paint it, and what accessories I added to it. I love hunting out west, but sometimes my set-up gets a bit bulky in the treestand areas I hunt. I decided I would set this bow up to hunt out of a treestand. I’ve thought about that bow for a long time, so when this one blipped on my radar I had to buy it. Stupid me decided to sell it because I was getting another bow. Back in 2013, I owned a Bear Attack and loved it. Other than that, the bow was ready to shoot. In full disclosure, the first things he told me were that the limbs had peeling paint (like a lot) and that they would need some work. I purchased a used 2011 Bear Attack compound bow from a buddy who was offloading it from his shop. Over the course of the last couple months, I have been working on cleaning up and getting an older, but new-to-me bow set up to hunt.
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